Ephesus and Selçuk in One Day

Ephesus (Efes in Turkish) is the reason most people come here, but the town next to it, Selçuk, holds the museum, the site of the Temple of Artemis and a hilltop basilica, all within walking distance of each other. This route covers both in a single day. Selçuk is in İzmir province and is reached from İzmir by regional train or by road; for the hill stops in the morning you will need a taxi or your own car.

Morning: the House of the Virgin Mary and Ephesus

Start early at the House of the Virgin Mary (Meryem Ana Evi), a small stone chapel on Bülbüldağı, the wooded hill above Ephesus. Catholics and Muslims both come here as pilgrims, so keep your voice down inside; the wishing wall and the spring-fed taps are just below the chapel. Forty-five minutes is enough. This site is run separately and has its own admission.

On the way down, stop at the upper gate of Ephesus. The site has two entrances, and starting at the top means the whole walk is downhill. Curetes Street takes you past the Temple of Hadrian to the Library of Celsus, and from there Marble Street leads to the Great Theatre and the lower gate. The Terrace Houses, a roofed section beside Curetes Street with wall paintings and mosaics from wealthy Roman homes, are well worth the time but need a separate ticket; if you rely on a museum pass, check the official list to see whether it is accepted there. Allow three hours for the site and another hour for the Terrace Houses.

There is almost no shade, and the marble paving is polished smooth by centuries of feet. Wear closed shoes with a good grip, a hat and sunscreen, and carry more water than you think you need. In summer arrive close to opening time: by midday both the heat and the tour groups build up.

Afternoon: Selçuk

Heading back into town, stop at the Temple of Artemis. One of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world is now a single column reassembled from fragments, standing in a marshy field. Half an hour is plenty.

After lunch, visit the Ephesus Museum. Sculpture from the city's buildings, household objects from the Terrace Houses and the famous statues of Ephesian Artemis are all here, and they make much more sense after a morning at the site. Allow an hour and a half.

From the museum it is a short walk uphill to the 14th-century İsa Bey Mosque. Just above it, Ayasuluk Hill carries the ruins of the Basilica of St John and the Ayasuluk Citadel. The view over the plain and the Artemis column is a good way to end the day. An hour is enough.

Practical notes

Some sites close one day a week; check the hours on each museum page. If you have energy left, Şirince, a hill village a short drive east of Selçuk, is a pleasant place for dinner. For a day in the city itself see the İzmir route, and to fold Ephesus into a longer trip, try the seven-day Aegean route.