Derinkuyu underground city

Derinkuyu is one of the deepest of Cappadocia's underground cities, cut into the soft rock beneath the small town of the same name on the road between Nevşehir and Niğde. Only a small part of the complex is open to the public, but it is enough to understand how people could shelter below ground for long periods.

A signposted, one-way route leads you down level by level. Near the top are stables (animals were hard to move deeper), kitchens and presses for wine and grape molasses. Further down come communal rooms, storage chambers, the round rolling-stone doors that could seal off a passage, and a cross-shaped church. Look out for the main ventilation shaft, which runs all the way to the surface and also served as a well. A visit takes forty-five minutes to an hour.

Passages are narrow and low, and in places you will need to stoop or almost crouch. If you are claustrophobic or have back or knee problems, think about this before going in. It is cool underground in every season, so bring a light layer, and watch your footing on worn steps. Tour groups peak around midday and the tunnels clog up, so arrive early. Kaymaklı Underground City is on the same road, a short drive north; if you want to see both, do one in the morning and the other in the afternoon. Check the hours on the museum page.